Kolae – Spice, Smoke & Second Chances

I had long maintained that Borough Market was somewhere to skirt around rather than linger in. Too crowded. Too many tourists. Too many viral sandwiches, chocolate strawberries and clouds of frying onions.

But tucked within arm’s reach of the chaos are some of London’s most exciting kitchens — counter-dining heavyweights like Barrafina, Agora, and newly Michelin-starred OMA.

And then there’s Kolae.

This was my second visit. The first left me equal parts impressed and slightly overwhelmed. The food was thrilling, but the spice levels tested my limits. I wasn’t sure I’d return.

I did. And this time, I did it properly.

Kolae is compact. Blush pink walls (never twee), small tables hugging the edges, and a sweeping counter wrapped around an open kitchen that periodically bursts into flame. It’s loud, energetic, alive. Even if it were half empty, the kitchen would create its own atmosphere, but good luck finding it half empty.

The trick here? Talk to the staff. They are excellent. They will guide you. Listen to them.

We were advised three dishes per person; five between two is plenty.

We began with biryani crackers – light, spicy, addictive. Then, herb fritters made with kale (a vegetable I typically avoid). These were extraordinary: crisp, like a prawn cracker from an Irish Chinese takeaway, served with a caramel-fish-sauce dressing that hit sweet, salty and savoury all at once. One of the best bites of the night.

The chicken skewers – sticky, tangy, gently spiced – were an easy win. The soy-braised pork, recommended by our neighbours at the counter (one of the joys of counter dining), was the standout! Rich and deeply comforting slow-cooked pork belly and ribs in a thin, sweet soy gravy with rice. The meat collapsed at the touch of a spoon. The sauce begged to be scooped, spooned, practically sipped. It’s the first thing I’d order again.

Not everything was gentle. A wing bean prawn salad, described as having “a kick,” delivered more of a right hook. Cold, sharp, deceptively fiery. We powered through with water and excellent cocktails; the Oolong Breeze in particular was perfectly judged against the heat.

A mango salad offered respite; it was fresh, bright, and necessary.

Five cocktails, five dishes: £142.80. For Borough Market, that feels more than fair. It feels like value.

Kolae is buzzy, generous, full of personality. The food is bold, vibrant and occasionally challenging — but in the right way, provided you order with care.

Second time around, I left not overwhelmed but converted. I’ll be back.